Monday, April 27, 2009

India in Fast Forward

We survived our trip to Cochin! That was easily and by far the most grueling "vacation" I have ever (and hopefully ever will) take. 25 hours on the train there. 25 hours on the train back. We went to three different towns: Mannar, Alleppey, and Cochin. The shortest drive we had between any one of them was 2 hours. We drove 5 hours to get to Mannar, 7 hours to get to Alleppey, and 2 hours to Cochin. That isn't counting our site-seeing time! Regardless, everything was beautiful... even if I personally would have planned the schedule a bit differently! The mountains were stunning and SUCH a relief from the heat. We took a boat ride through the backwaters of Alleppey that was so great! I thought about moving there for a minute but in the end decided to continue my trip. Cochin was a bigger city so I didn't love it quite as much but the fishermen's nets were interesting to see and it was nice to be close to beach. I don't have much energy left to be descriptive and due to an unfortunate series of events I am not able to post pictures quite yet. We just got off the train about an hour ago so we are repacking, showering, and relaxing for a few hours before we head over to the airport and off to Nepal!!!! I cannot believe that my time in India is already done. It went so quickly! All three of us are so excited to get to Nepal. I think we are all ready to leave incredible India (especially Liz and Mark! poor dears need a break). This country is amazing and definitely worth experiencing. I personally would recommend NOT coming to the desert plains during the summer, but you live and learn =).

Our friend Barry who is meeting us in Turkey spent some time in Nepal and was able to set us up with some Nepalese friends of his who own a guest house there. We've been emailing back and forth and they sound so wonderful and so hospitable! They will be meeting us at the airport and taking us out for a traditional Nepalese dinner. Our tentative schedule is to stay in Kathmandu for the first two nights then go trekking for a few days, and hopefully see Everest before heading to Turkey. I can't wait!!! I hoping either Buddha or the Dali Lama will have some insight on what to do with my life. I'm also hoping to make some headway in freeing Tibet while I'm there =)

To close, I scribbled some notes on the train about my experience. I was writing just to seal some of the images in my mind before they slipped away, as they so often do. But on second read, I think it might be my first slam poem. Emily, please let me know if you think HBO would be interested in me performing it! Haha! Here we go:

Watching India in fast forward (and sometimes on pause) as our train covered India from Hyderabad to Cochin. Hot, crowded, noisy with a toilet that is little more than a hole onto the tracks (hold on, don't slip). Bunk beds stacked three high that are a little over five feet long. Bruised hips from sleeping on the hard vinyl. A closer grip on the cultural differences highlighted by a polarity of thought on personal space and sanitation. A complete lack of concern toward the roaches running along the floor of the train. A feigned indifference to the multitude of beggars shaking their hands from their mouths toward you. A double take at the transvestite/hermaphrodite men in sari's who seemed almost as happy to elicit shock as to accept coins. The colony of boys running from car to car sweeping the floors with their shirts for coins, some with a gleam of mischief in their eyes as they gathered between cars. Like the true Lost Boys of Peter Pan. I almost expected a trouble making leader to emerge although I'm unfortunately sure that their lives don't lend to the joyful innocence. Sweat beading and dripping off me. Dirt collected under my nails. Biriyani, biriyani, biriyani. Lights out and everyone sleeps except faithful Naveen who stays awake to watch the bags. Sleep interrupted at each stop. Breezes and sunset. Breezes and sunrise. Biriyani. Biriyani. Biriyani and start again. And stop again and start and stop and sweat and nap. And read. And watch as India moves by in fast forward. Plains to grass to mountains to sea. Villages hide under banana trees with thatched roofs and bright paint. Political flags and posters everywhere with party symbols to serve the illiterate. A hand, palm forward. A bicycle. Battery torch. A seat in the open doorway over the tracks to catch more wind for some relief from the heat. It feels like a blow dryer on the highest setting. Drink more water but thankfully don't need to use the "bathroom" many times. Somewhat thankful for dehydration for that! Drinking cups and cups of sweet coffee from vendors with low, loud, gravely voices that pace the aisles. 5 rupees to help balance the heat outside and the heat within as I sip my coffee. 25 hours later to arrive so tired, so hot, so dirty with only 5 days before we do it again.

Namaste on my last day in India.

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Greetings from 5800 feet!

We have made it to cooler climates... thank God! It was probably the longest trip of my life but TOTALLY worth it. I didn't even sweat last night while I was sleeping, it was amazing; even if I was sleeping on the hardest bed pad ever, kind of like camping and sleeping straight on the ground.

Getting here was exactly the adventure I thought it would be. Or exactly the rodeo I expected. The train ride was about 25 hours long. Luckily, our bus was waiting for us at the train station. This was a minor miracle as we did not expect that to go so smoothly. We loaded our tired group onto the bus to go to the hotel. Our driver/tour guide asked if we would like to site see or just go straight to the hotel. The resounding consensus of the group was to please go straight to the hotel. We were all desperate for showers after sweating through the past 25 hours in close quarters. (I will have to expand on the train ride when I have more time!). The driver nodded his head and off we went. We asked how long to the hotel and he answered with a mischievous smile, "5 hours." We laughed along with the joke and kept smiling (as we usually do when we don't understand anything that's going on).

5 hours later we arrived at the hotel. Seriously.

Sooooo, 30 exhausted, sweaty, smelly, dirty hours later our group of 16 (and one baby) rolled into Mannar. It is absolutely beautiful here. We are sitting high on tropical mountains covered in Tea Estates with a patchwork of green covering every hillside. It is a cross between the mountains of Central America, Dominican Republic, and (Liz thinks) a Swiss town. (Mark and I tend to disagree with her comparison but we'll go with it because I can't think of anything better). The air is comfortably humid and cool as we sit in the clouds. Thunder rolls over the mountains. The colors are so vibrant as they are everywhere in India. I swear, this entire country is Technicolor. Our teachers are so sweet. They haven't traveled before so for most of them it is their first stay in a hotel, etc. They are so excited to see a landscape so different from what they have ever seen before. Its amazing to see all of these things through their wide open eyes. I forget how cynical my perspective is sometimes and it's so nice to be confronted with their wonder. The first time to see a mountain. The first time to see a waterfall. I'm humbled by the beauty I've seen in my life that I've taken for granted.

I meant to keep this short but I write like I sneeze... once I start I can't stop. I know I'm gushing but I'm so thankful to be here. I'm so thankful to be with my sister and Mark. I am so glad to be having this experience and can't imagine being anywhere else right now.

Namaste from the internet cafe.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

God loves our empty hands.

Ahh, the hot Indian days of summer. Like really really hot. It was 42 yesterday, which I think is around 115 degrees! I've been laying low during daylight hours but we are venturing out today to see the sites and sounds of Hyderabad! I decided that I definitely need to experience this city before we leave on our great adventures. Speaking of which, we leave Tuesday for Cochin... or what I like to refer to as the guaranteed rodeo. The incredible reality of this trip is that Mark, Liz, and I are traveling with a group of 17 Indians on a 25+ hour train ride (each way!) in economy class... hahaha! I will definitely have a few stories from that one!

School let out this week which has limited our activity schedule and upped our napping/tv watching schedule. After school let out the kids put together a performance for me. They are so incredibly cute! There were four Bollywood-style dance numbers. Unfortunately, the last song refused to cooperate and the performance degenerated quickly into a free-for-all talent show of sorts. Anyone who had a song to sing took the mike and a few of the teachers shared their dance moves. I got to hear one of the most unique and wonderful versions I will ever hear of "The 12 Days of Christmas." It was so precious!

Liz and I got the opportunity the other night to have our first Indian cooking lesson! Verginia very graciously invited us to dinner and let us come early to help prepare the food so she could teach us about Indian cooking. Their family of five lives in a two room concrete house: one room for living and one for cooking. It is a gorgeous little place opening to a shared courtyard and stairs to the rooftop that looks almost Italian. Indian style kitchens have only a stove top and storage. There isn't counter space (squat and use the floor, there's plenty of that) and there isn't a sink (just fill a jug with water and dip out as needed). I love the simplicity. It is clearly completely sufficient for creating delicious meals! Lets just say that Indians are not scared to use an incredible amount of spice and flavoring for their cooking. Hopefully I will have a chance to demonstrate when I get back!

In other news, "our" dog had six puppies yesterday. Really she's the mother of "our" dog, Spicy, but she hangs out quite a bit and chose our front door to give birth next to. The babies are adorable: two white, one black, and three black with white marks. Mama isn't black or white so we're trying to figure out who dad might be... that little hussy. Anyway, if anyone would like to adopt an Indian pup with unknown paternity I would be happy to get directions for you to come and get them!

Finally, my quotes for the day and a bit about feelings (dedicated to Em). I'm going to blame the extra time I've had on my hands, but I've been spending an unfortunate amount of time worrying about what on earth to do with my life. I tend to do this when I don't have work lined up and think that I suddenly need to find a career to pursue. I then get further panicked when I realize that not only do I not have a job and therefore, purpose in life, but I don't have a home or a husband or a way to take care of my dog or... you get the idea. Actually, if you're reading this you are most likely very familiar with the "Brishon Downward Spiral" of thought as I have probably spent countless hours on your couch or on the phone over the past 5 years with the EXACT SAME ISSUES. I know, I know, but at least I'm aware of it. My current strategy is to embrace the unknown and try to breathe. So my quotes to consider are these:

"Know that God loves empty hands." -Werner Bergengruen

And once again, reminding me to be gentle with myself:

"There may be no solution, seek it lovingly."

Namaste (for a few more days) from the Guest House.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

My ode to Mark, the best driver in the whole world

Driving in India is an experience like no other. Generally driving in any other country is an adventure but I haven't seen anything like the Indian transportation experience anywhere I've ever been. I don't even really know where to begin describing it. The roads themselves are in bad shape in our area, if they are paved at all. Most places they are paved only wide enough for one vehicle. If they aren't paved they have deep canyons cut into the dirt where water has cut away any semblance of a level road. Most of the cars on the road keep their side mirrors tucked against the window because everyone passes so narrowly. Every road is an equal opportunity zone for pedestrians, motorbikes, cars, cows, dogs, trucks, trolleys, "autos" (a sort of three wheeled taxi, like a motorized rickshaw), pigs, army trucks, you name it. I haven't figured out why they bothered putting lines on the pavement because there is not even the beginning of a concept of lanes.

As an outside observer, my take on the culture so far is that there is a complete disregard for lines and waiting your turn. There just isn't such a thing as a "turn." Instead, there is a sort of acceptance that if you can physically fit in a place, it must be ok. If you don't physically fit, you find a way to push people/cars/anything but cows out of the way until you do. This follows in every situation. Whether you are at the bank or on the road, there is no such thing as waiting your turn, you just push to where you want to go. I guess it follows in a country with a billion people. If you didn't find your way to the front, you probably wouldn't get anything done. When we are driving, Mark is a champion. He can follow inches behind, scoot around with millimeters to spare, avoid, evade, u-turn, park, not kill animals or pedestians... its amazing how well he has adapted. I keep wanting to take a try behind the wheel but I have a feeling that it would take me about 10 minutes to cause a major trajedy.

I have a few favorite sights on the road. I love seeing women in their beautiful, flowing, feminine saris driving a motorcycle. I love that carpooling to school means piling as many of the neighborhood kids as can fit on one of the dad's motorcycles. I can't imagine my mom sending me off to second grade hanging precariously off the back of a motorcylce loaded with a man and four other kids! I love the entire families on motorcycles. Literally, dad is driving with one of the kids siting between him and the handle bars and mom and the two other kids are sitting behind him.

I honestly don't know how Mark navigates it all. And did I mention that he is driving a stick shift, driver seat on the right, shifting with the left hand on the wrong side of the road? This is my ode to Mark, the greatest driver in the entire world.

Monday, April 13, 2009

Weighting on the profound

So I was hoping that I would come here and suddenly have the answers to life's problems. Or at least some minor epiphanies from leaving my "normal" life behind. Nothing profound, yet. I'm still hoping and realistically, I did just get here.

What I have been spending plenty of time, though, and energy on is weight loss. I'm so deep. My sister is a registered Dietition so I am grasping the opportunity by the water buffalo's horns and letting her dictate my food intake so I can shed a few lbs. We will be spending almost 2 months together and we have a goal of 20lbs that she is confident we can acheive. I am hopeful and willing to do my part! We've been doing yoga twice a day and running with our puppy Spicy. She's like a fake Marlin-- perpetual grin, floppy ears, and a spunky attitude. My purpose for this is two-fold. I need to get in shape to be able to do all the things we want to do in Nepal and I'd love to lose this weight without having to pick up an eating disorder. Eating disorders sound like a lot of work and I don't think I have the will power.

My resolve was doubled after our recent shopping expedition. I don't know if my various readers are familiar with the typical Indian body type, but needless to say, I am NOT it. My curves are a bit unusual in these parts. Most of the men are literally about half my size. They have to wrap their belts around their waists more than once. Like leather belts. The women also lack that "hourglass" shape. Like to the point that my bosoms do not fit into any shirt they have for sale. The poor shopkeepers kept digging through their piles of shirts looking for "bigger, bigger!" for something that I could squeeze myself into. They finally gave up... my size was not to be found with the merchandise on the street so they brought our group to the back room where we could look through the XXLs. Seriously. In the end I ended up getting a couple really nice shirts to supplement my travel wardrobe (which I am thankful for) and a steely resolve to stick to Liz's professional opinion. I will keep you posted once I am ready to start sharing the weigh-ins.

Please excuse the current obsession! There is much more interesting points to bring up about the shopping expedition. First, we were accompanied by three of the teachers from the school, Regita, Annie, and Uma. Annie's precious daughter also came along. They are so wonderful and sweet and helped us navigate the overwhelming general market. There are so many people, motorbikes, cars, noises, colors, elbows, and tube socks! Everyone kept trying to sell me mens tube socks for some reason, I must have looked like I needed them. The girls were so wonderful and concerned as we pushed out way through the crowds. I think they were genuinely afraid that I would get lost in the sea of sari's and bangles. We finished up the evening eating the (literally, I read about it before I got here) world famous Chicken Byriani at the Paradise Hotel. It was good but I have been much more impressed with the dishes that Liz and Mark's Indian friends regularly bring over.

We are here for another week before we head off on our great adventures! We are heading first to Cochin, a city on the Southern coast. We are traveling with 17 of the teachers from the school. From what I understand, most of them have not traveled much, if at all, so Liz and Mark asked the benefactors of the school if they would sponsor a sort of year end teacher field trip and they agreed. We are headed out for a 7-day Indian adventure! We will be traveling overnight on a train in the regular sleeping cars and doing this vacation on a true Indian budget. I'm so excited to see part of India with them and through their eyes. We are treated so differently here as we are such obvious foreigners. While we can't escape that mentality completely, it will be interesting to have a buffer of sorts.

The elections are quickly approaching. The streets are starting to fill with the Indian military who regularly stop our car to check for bombs, "black" money, and other bribes or disruption of the peace. They look all through the car and our bags and purses. I'm glad they are being thorough and it is a good reminder that things could get very interesting and very dangerous very quickly. We have planned our travel with this in mind and will be in the southern, more peaceful part of the country as elections begin and then heading to Nepal and Turkey while they get in full swing. Don't be afraid to send up little prayers when you think of it for these elections to go peacefully. The Taliban has made it very clear that they do not want this to happen so please keep the innocent bystanders in your thoughts and prayers.

Enough for today! These entries get so long so quickly, my apologies to both of my readers =).

Namaste from the Guest House.

Friday, April 10, 2009

Guess where I'm staying...

As irony would have it, the house we are living in here is named "The Guest House." How incredibly appropriate and symbolic (if you want to go there).

It is almost election time in India and from what my sources tell me (ok, what Liddy tells me), this is a process that happens in five parts during the month of May. The Taliban has made it known that they are not willing to let this election pass peacefully. With that noted, we have decided to keep the people of India in our prayers from afar and get out of town! We are going to take the opportunity to go explore Nepal before we head to Turkey. I am looking forward to getting dreadlocks, finding the Dali Lama, and freeing Tibet while we are there. It'll be a busy week!

I honestly cannot believe that I am actually getting to go all of these places, it is so surreal. I am also acutely aware of how blessed I am to get to spend this time with Liz and Mark. To make it even more unbelievable I am so excited to meet up with Heatherlyn, Barrett, Barry, and Patty (and Ashley if she gets crazy enough to get a ticket!). I am also extremely excited that I get to LIVE with my own, personal, professional nutritionist for two months. Alizabeth has me on a regime to lose all that weight I've been carrying around. Bless her.

Now to the downside of traveling this far... jet lag. I feel like I've been sleeping since I got here. Until last night. Last night I woke up, wide awake at 3:30am. I laid and tried to fall asleep until about 6:30 when I decided to go ahead and get up for 7am yoga. There is yoga on TV several times a day so we try to catch it when we can. We went running last night too but it is so hot here! Knocks the wind out of you.

Today we are going to the bazaar with a couple of the girls that teach at the school. I'm really excited to get a few shirts... I really didn't pack all that well! Little shout out to Mark and Liz's blog if you want to hear they're side of the story: vwadventures.weebly.com

Namaste.

Thursday, April 9, 2009

I have arrived in Hyderabad!! Finally! My adventure began when I landed in Delhi. I was a little nervous about what to expect when I arrived in Delhi. I feel like I always realize a little too late (like as the plane is making its final descent) that I haven't actually done the proper research on the place that I am landing. I had that moment, yet again, as we headed into Delhi and I realized that I really had no idea how I was going to find my next flight, if I had to go through customs, how widely English would be spoken, and if signs would be printed in English. I also realized that we were landing a few minutes late and my next flight was departing in less than an hour. Finally, it occurred to me that I stand out a bit like a sore thumb with blond hair and blue eyes and I am travelling alone.

At the end of the story I make it to Hyderabad but not before I discover the wonders of Delhi. P.S., there are in fact TWO airports in Delhi (a fact that Orbitz failed to inform me of) so took an (overpriced) taxi ride to take a tour of the domestic airport about 15 minutes after my scheduled flight departed. Fortunately the VIP Customer Service rep for the airport took pity on me and helped get me sorted, get to the correct airport, hire a taxi at the correct price, and get a new flight. I'm so thankful for his kindness... at that point I was so tired and frustrated that I probably would have ended up crying on the side of the road in Delhi somewhere if he hadn't. I finally landed in Hyderabad at 3:30AM. Mark and Liddy waited faithfully for me to finally get there... I was supposed to land at 7:50PM and didn't have any way of letting them know that I was stuck!!!

The sights and sounds and smells of India are mesmerizing. I'm getting a crash course in a culture that is so exotically different than my own. I'm so glad that I am here!!! We went over to the school this morning to meet the teachers. They are so sweet and I'm so glad Mark and Liz have had such a loving Indian "family" to keep an eye on them. They greeted me with smiles and a "Welcome to India" card with instructions to "Open with a smile." The practice has paid off because they can all pronounce and spell my name better than people that have known me most of my life. Just kidding, but I am flattered that they practiced my name before I got here!

I am enjoying my first meal with Mark and Liz. They have excitedly prepared one of the boxes of Velveeta shells and cheese that I brought for them =). Tonight we are going out to explore the fabulous local cuisine (or hopefully I think its fabulous).

Seek lovingly....

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

The journey

I have arrived in India!!  Unfortunately, I have not yet arrived in Hyderabad quite yet but that should happen in the next few hours.  I am sincerly hoping that Liz and Mark haven't given up on me and will still be there to get me, especially since it will be about 2AM by the time I land and they have to go to school tomorrow!

I have a few random quotes on my mind and if I have time will share a few random thoughts about India.

First, it must be addressed that this blog is for Emily.  The blog title is of Emilial inspiration as well.  I think it fits as I tend to be both literally and figuratively a "guest house" so here is the poem in its entirety as it is one of the thoughts that I have not been able to get off my mind lately...

This being human is a guest house
Every morning a new arrival.
A joy, a depression, a meanness,
some momentary awareness comes
as an unexpected visitor.
Welcome and entertain them all!
Even if they are a crowd of sorrows,
who violently sweep your house
empty of its furniture,
still treat each guest honorably.
He may be clearing you out for some new delight.
The dark thought, the shame, the malice,
meet them at the door laughing, 
and invite them in.
Be grateful for whoever comes,
because each as been sent
as a guide from beyond.
-Rumi

The next quote I've been chewing on for some reason comes from one of my most favorite, brilliant, theological minds.  I have to be honest that I'm not exactly sure why this particular quote has been stirring the fathoms of my mind the last couple weeks.  I will not try to explain but continue to wait and see how it's meaning unfolds for me....

"He that but looketh on a plate of ham and eggs to lust after it hath already committed breakfast with it in his heart."  - C.S. Lewis

The final quote is a Zen saying that gives me so much peace in problems that are small and big.  I've been dwelling on this one for many months and the last couple weeks it has been whispering in my ear again...

"There may be no solution.  Seek it lovingly."

So with that off my chest I will have to sign off for now.  I will have to update how everything is going when I do reach Hyderbad as all I have been left with at this point is 200 rupees and my smile.  I have already fallen victim to the Indian game of "overcharge whitey."  I am about to run out of internet time that I already overpaid for and will hopefully be boarding my flight in the next few minutes.  Until then!